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Which knot to tie in with?


Many years ago as a youngster growing up using the southern sandstone outcrops as the regular climbing spot I was shown the Bowline to tie in with but traveling further afield to the Lakes and mountains beyond the figure of eight was deployed so why was that? Here are three knots to tie in with and why. 


The Bowline was perfect for the southern sandstone outcrops where the rope was on and off quickly on the short routes and often weighted being lowered. The bowline is quick to tie and is also easy to undo after being loaded. This makes it a good knot for sport climbing, top roping and indoor climbing. Although easy to tie when you know how it’s also easy to get it wrong and isn’t easily seen if you have got it wrong which can end badly. Finished with a stopper knot (half fisherman’s). 


The figure of eight is very secure and is better suited for longer climbs where it could get bashed about and knocked and your on the rope for longer. Its also a good beginner knot as it’s easier to tie and see that it’s been tied correctly. If its not tied correctly it doesn’t match up and is easy to see. Finished with a stopper knot (half fisherman’s).


A rethreaded over hand works best when you don't have access to an end of the rope. A rethreaded figure of eight will create a huge knot at your waist so the overhand, just as strong will thin it down a bit. Rather than a stopper the loop leftover is clipped back on the rope loop formed by the knot. 

Climbing courses  

To fund out more why not join one of our climbing courses to find out more have a look at the links below. 

Introduction to Rock Climbing 

Rock climbing course 

Problem Solving for climbers 

Sport Climbing Course 

Indoor Rock climbing 

Scrambling and mountaineering courses 

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